This is my Cootie Mk2 to be really honest my knowledge of Sideswipery is minimal, I've only used a very small number of Sideswipers or Cooties  and most of them I've made myself, also I must admit I'm not great at sending with a Cootie either, now I'm talking "Cooties" not Paddles, my idea of a Paddle is a key that is designed to work with some sort of electronic code generator with three terminals, where as a Cootie sends code by "Swiping" the handle back and forth pausing at each side to produce either a dot or a dash as required, there is some confusion as Paddles can be wired up and used as Cooties, but a true Cootie can not be anything other than a Cootie as it only has two connections, no doubt someone will tell me otherwise :()
Now most of the vintage Cooties were quite simple and just had a flat steel spring that was bent back and forth to send the code and when released would centre with no contact at all, auto centre is common to all Cooties and Paddles, you release the handle and no contact is made on any terminal, there are basically three ways of doing this, With a flat spring, With spring loaded flaps, Or with magnets, each have advantages and disadvantages, a flat steel spring is the simplest and many homebrew cooties are made with old hacksaw blades and drawing pin contacts but they can be very stiff and difficult to adjust, also they need a very heavy weight to hold them in position, And then there is the spring flap method where two spring loaded flaps are lifted alternatively when the paddle is pushed left or right and when released both flaps hold the handle in a central no contact position, It does work quite well and as the flaps are normally adjusted individually they provide a wide range of adjustment to the key but the action feels a bit odd, experienced Swiper enthusiasts sometimes say the flap key seems to be working against you instead of with you, hard to explain but it seems difficult to get a nice "flow" going with a flap design.,  And there are magnets, magnetic Cooties are few and far between mainly as they are difficult to make as getting the magnets in the correct position to tension the action means a lot of adjustments, but the real advantage of a magnetic Cootie is if it is carefully designed code can be sent with a minimal pressure on the arm, most cooties require a heavy base as the act of pushing the arm of the key sideways or "Swiping" can physically move the whole key, but a good magnetic action can be set so light that a really heavy base is not required and code can be sent in a very relaxed way by using the very lightest of fingertip pressure, and this key below is designed to do exactly that :()
 
As you can see it is magnetic, basically there are two disk magnets one fixed to the base and one on the arm and they are held edge on to each other this provides the tension and centering, sliding the arm magnet up or down the arm increases or decreases the tension but even when set really close the tension is minimal, the key was originally designed so that sliding the magnet up and down provided the tension and swinging it left and right would centre it but in practice this proved difficult to do, So I fitted another disk magnet on a cam, the tension can be set and then the cam magnet can be rotated to centre the arm, a bit like bandspread on the old receivers, and this of course means I only need one gap adjuster, a terminal is fitted where the second gap adjuster would normally be. To get the very weak magnetic force to reliably centre the arm the key needs an almost frictionless pivot bearing I tried a sleeve bearing but just couldn't get a reliable centre, so the pivot on this key has two high quality ball races fitted, the action has a featherlike touch and needs a bit of getting used to, but it is what handmade key making is all about for me, pushing the envelope to find what works and what doesn't, it's great fun,
 
And it is small, my fingers below give a rough idea of the scale, when I was testing it earlier on,  it weighs barely 300g but can be used quite reliably as is but a stone base does make it easier to use.
 
Postscript 03/11/08  After using this little swiper for a while it became clear that a by-product of low friction bearings and very light magnetic attraction was a tendency for the main arm to vibrate, i.e. if the contacts were set fairly close, on sending two spaced "dot" characters as in "de" for example where having sent the dash and dot for the d  and left a character space then the next dot for the e I found my fingers stopped touching the key knob for a fraction of a second and during that time the handle could vibrate and make a fleeting unwanted contact, which was annoying, so I have made a slight modification and included a minute amount of damping in the form of a very lightweight brass bar sleeved in rubber that rests on the arm and stops the unwanted vibration, as this damping is only needed for close contact very lightweight operation it can be flipped off if not required, as can be seen below, I know this seems a bit picky but after all it was an experimental project and it does make the key far more reliable at high speed.

The only problem with this little key is it is highly adjustable, and so requires the user to be familiar with making fine mechanical adjustments to get the best out of it, sadly experience has taught me that many ops don't have the patience or ability to do this, so finding a suitable owner for it may be a problem :-{
 
See it working here